A Travellerspoint blog

By this Author: lskellis

Between borders

The road to Coyhaique gave us our first glimpse of the epic scenery we had all been waiting for. As we crested a hill we saw majestic mountains in the distance, with beautiful lakes below. The scale of these panoramas is hard to describe but it blows you away. There are border huts dotted all along the Chilean and Argentina border as the road north winds its way in and out of each country. We had been assured they were all manned and more than capable of dealing with the paperwork of getting the car in and out of each country. A cute little station saw us checked out of Argentina. I was driving the mountainous pass and began to worry after about 15km when there was no sight of the Chilean border. We passed farms and homes and after 45 km I was really worried. I assume it is not nice to be caught in country with no papers and a rental car. The boys were very blasé. They assured me that if somehow we had missed the boarder we would get it all sorted with the police. As previously mentioned collectively our Spanish just about stretches to asking for beer and saying cheers. I didn't like the idea of trying to explain an unlawful entry. However it turned out the boys were right and I needn't have worried. Possibly to the longest border gap I have ever come across but eventually we found the hut for stamps, paperwork and the useless poke inside the car for contraband and I could relax. _STP7425.jpg

We arrived late into Coyhaique and spent more than a few minutes dealing with the way the roads are set up in this part of the world. One way roads forming square grids are the norm here, which sounds easy but with the right of way not made clear and certain roads not following the pattern you can quickly become disorientated and tired of circling round and round to get to where you want to go. Turns out this touristy town closes many of its hostels over the winter, but our method of discovering this seemed to be visiting every single one. Ellie and I eventually gave up and sent the boys out on foot whilst we stood awkwardly in a cafe, where help with finding accommodation was sought (the cakes looked amazing but there is only so much sweet food and caffeine you can take on the road) before returning to the car. Ellie and I never failed to find most situations amusing even when tired,hungry and homeless. Each of the boys could made us cackle with laughter at the silliest things, especially when they weren't around. As usual our heroes found us a lovely place to stay and we headed out to find food. A restaurant proved far easier to find than a hostel. We decided to treat ourselves to a slap up meal but found ourselves a bit perplexed at the menu. We each ordered our own steak or lamb dishes but couldn't work out the super expensive mixed meat option. Turns out it is a popular way of serving food in this part of the world. Why choose just one of all the delicious wood fired meat options when you pick one mighty meat feast and share them all? A bottle of red wine accompanied our meal and we were persuaded to try the local drink Pisco Sour. Now I miss having glass after glass (OK and glass) of warming red wine, but a cocktail with the word sour in it and I am a happy pregnant lady. A quick sip confirmed my prejudice, that and the screwed up faces of my fellows travellers as they manfully took theirs down. Talk turned to all things army and Ellie and I made the sound decision to leave the boys to it and head home.

The next day saw us raring to go, however once again we had a flat tyre. Seems the road had been harder on our car than we had given it credit for. Once again the boys were dispatched to find new tyres. Over lunch we did some research into Carretera Austral. There is nothing quite like the sight of 5 foreigners in an beautiful mountain town with all their eyes glued to their phone screens. After discovering hundreds of miles of more gravel roads awaited us we looked into another option, a ferry. Brochures showed the truly beautiful fjords covered in lush forests and wildlife close up. After such rotten luck on the driving we decided a 28hr ferry would be perfect. I was sad not to be travelling along the famous Carretera Austral, but we would still get the scenery and it would be a lot more comfortable.

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We finally found our way to the correct ferry after some brilliant Spanglish from Jacko. He was learning Spanish with the help of an app on his phone and what he lacked in proficiency he more than made up for in confidence. Not one to let not knowing the words get in the way he could be relied upon to jump out he car and endlessly ask people for help, directions and all manner of information. This time Terry and Andy caught him asking about the location of our ferry. To my knowledge "lefto" is not considered proper Spanish.

We boarded late at night with images of bars and and restaurants serving local seafood, as we had seen in the brochure. A small bar serving nothing but melted cheese and bread in various combinations turned out to be the only facilitates on board. Rows of TV's at impossible angles above our heads showed all manner of films during our voyage. Schindler's List turns out to still be quite the thought provoking downer, but the kids on board seemed to enjoy it. Reclining seats provided us with our sleeping option but we all headed to the floor armed with roll mats and sleeping bags.
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The dawn turned out to be hard to catch in the thick fog and rain. Although no sign of the postcard views we could see the front of the boat and it was fascinating to watch all manner of items get loaded and unloaded at the many stops along the way. The ferry really is a lifeline for the communities living in these little fishing villages dotted amongst the islands. We were particularly interested in the large number of sacks of what we thought were potatoes, they turned out to be huge shellfish of some kind, you have to love the irony. The weather did eventually clear enough for us to catch a glimpse of something truly special, an Orca Whale. . Although quite far off and not exactly the full Attenborough experience to see a wild Orca was pretty amazing.
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As we were going at a walking pace it didn't not come as a shock when 28 hrs turned into 35 and we spent our second night on the boat. A large boat filled with sweaty men lead to cacophony of snoring noises. None as irritating as Terry who got a boot thrown at his head for disturbing Andy and Ellie who were catching up on a bit of Boardwalk Empire. However we did manage some sleep and awoke to another gray dawn and we had at last arrived.

Posted by lskellis 11:47 Archived in Chile Comments (0)

Anyone got a puncture repair kit?

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We arrived in at the boarder exactly at 9am. Another easy crossing in terms of paper work but it is worth noting there are strict restrictions on products you can bring move across these boarders. Now I don't want to big time it, but in a blatant disregard for the rules we formed a smuggling ring and are now international apple and pears smugglers. Seems we are cut from the same cloth as Pablo Escobar!

Dashing through the snow sounds very Christmassy and has a certain romance about it. That is until you have to do it driving a new car for the very first time, on the wrong side of the car and road. This was the challenge Ellie had to face as she took her turn behind the wheel. Although fitted out with studs and equipped with 4 wheel drive it is no help when the surface of the road turns into a white out. Jacko took the front seat and coached Ellie through, but there was no stopping the inevitable skid across the road. At low speed and with thankfully nothing coming the other way she dealt with it brilliantly, and we came to a gentle stop on the hard shoulder. However it was a reminder that no matter how careful we were on a road trip and there would be dangers. This was always one of my biggest fears for my own little passenger. Even a relatively minor car crash can cause a miscarriage. All this worry and Terry hadn't even got behind the wheel yet!

For those that don't know Terry came to driving a bit later than the rest of us, however he doesn't let that stop him having the confidence of a seasoned driver. Maybe he sucks some of this confidence from his passengers, who often seem to be somewhat lacking. Even if not completely true, he had to endure endless banter over his heavy right foot, and magnetism to the cars in front, which at least kept the rest of us happy.

Or destination for the morning was El Calafate. Yet another town reaping success from yet another natural wonder. This time the epic Pertio Moreno Glacier. This flows down to a lake and you can watch great chucks of it crash into the melt pond. From the descriptions it is very like the images you see to remind you we are causing global warming, scary but kinda cool.

As we searched the car for a bit more information on this town, we began to notice we had left rather a lot of kit back at the other hostel. 2 pairs of girls walking boots and the very useful, brand new guide book on the whole of South America. There is nothing like leaving perfectly good kit at the very beginning of the trip to drag down my moral. I like travelling without a guide book, during previous trips I rarely used them, preferring the advice of other travellers, locals and a bit of mystery, but when you drive the maps of each town are really rather helpful.

On top of this it was another gray foggy day. To see the impressive glacier you park in a viewings area across from its end. After seeking some local advice and even a bit of spying on a webcam it became obvious that it would be 500 pesos (£50 each) wasted. The visibility was just too bad. Over an amazing lunch (remembered well, as it was the last food we saw for over 24hrs) we decided to push on.

It was Terry's turn behind the wheel. He had the dubious pleasure of huge empty stretches of gravel road. Despite the banter he drove beautifully although sometimes it did feel rather quick skimming over the shifting surface, often at well over 100km an hour. The sound of hundreds of stones being flung up and thwacking the bottom of the car is a peculiar one. He can't have been going too fast though, as we were overtaken a couple of times by some bigger cars. He also got us off the gravel by dusk, around 17:30 this far South.

We had decided to drive through the night to make up lost time waiting for the boarders. So there was no rest for the wicked. The incredibly long straight tarmac roads were pleasant change and we could start to really get some kilometres under our belt. Around midnight we hit what seemed to be a another rough patch with much shaking and banging. Turns out, this time our mechanical knowledge was more than enough to diagnose a flat tyre. Poor Elie who had been driving thought she had been cursed, although we did agree later that the 100km/hr dash through gravel was probably to blame, something Terry strenuously denies to this day. Now as annoying as all this was, all boys relish the opportunity to show how manly they are by changing tyres. In the dark and with a bitter wind blowing they got the job done in 12 minutes. All very impressive but the reality of a new 80km speed limit from the space saver was a blow, as was our curtailed travel plans.

We limped into a dusty town at 2am, expecting difficulties finding accommodation at such an ungodly hour. Quite the opposite, it was Saturday night. The town was buzzing. Cars were cruising the streets. Buildings pulsed with lights and music. We were pointed in the direction of the loudest hotel of all. The windows on the car rattled as we approached. Dapper couples of all ages were on the dance floor shimmying and shaking their hips, in a way we in the west find very hard to do. It was in stark contrast to the 5 white crumpled ghosts who checked in.

The next day the boys headed out early to get things sorted. They might have well not have bothered. An early Sunday morning was never going to be productive. The whole town was suffering from the effects of both a collective hangover, and Catholicism, it was a ghost town. To add to our woes we now had two flats. Of the few people who were about no one spoke a word of English and we only have the slightest grasp of Spanish. Through various hand motions the situation was explained in the local tourist office, and the cleaning lady was dispatched with Andy and Terry to find someone to help. This came in the form of a decrepit old man whose garage had a stale air. After a diabetes inducing sugary brunch at a bakery Ellie and I joined the tyre party at the garage. The source of the smell was discovered at the back with years of cat shit piling up in huge mounds. Mauled cats with eyes missing and deformities of all sorts seemed to be this old boys' friends, and it was a surprisingly sad scene.
Puncture Repair

Puncture Repair


However with new inner tubes (on inner tubeless tyres) we once again made for the boarder with Chile. Our destination was Coyhaique the start of the scenic Carretera Austral” (Southern Highway). This beautiful road would take us to the Chilean lake district and then onto San Antino where we could finally pick our Furry Taxi.

Posted by lskellis 18:35 Archived in Chile Comments (0)

The land of gravel not fire.

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05/08/14 - 08/08/14
Km travelled: 1793
Ushuaia, Puerto Natales , Torres Del Paine,

After a quick 20 minute ferry crossing the famous Magellan Straights, synonymous with daring Victorian explorers we left mainland chile and arrived on Tierra del Fuego. This island is often refered to in Spanish folk lore to scare young children into behaving, was not as I expected. The translation means land of fire and I was expected towering volcanos and dramatic scenes. What we got was a barren flat land, with gravel mud roads, and really bugger all to look at, apart from the odd Lama. I have found out since, the fire refers to the hundreds of fires of the indigenous tribes which could be seen by the early explores. Photos from these tribes shows the some strange rituals involving body paint and some rather funky headwear. As with most colonial stories the fate of these tribes is a sad one and they have been completely wiped off the face of the earth, mostly to make room for sheep.
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To get to Ushuaia we had to face our first boarder crossing from Chile to Argentina. If you have experienced boarder crossings you will know they can be stressful, slightly scary and they are invariable manned by sour faced (job-worths, BUROCRACTIC immigration types.) What we never expected was a group of happy guards heartily signing along to the latest hit on the radio and having friendly, smily dispositions, all in a lonely boarder hut. Three stamps and we were away.

The landscape did finally begin to change with the arrival of ghostly woods covered with moss and lichen. Suddenly mountains appeared and on the other side Ushuaia. Now to Andy and I this town looked gorgeous (compared with Punta A) with a real skiing town feel. Dramatic mountains overlooking the sea and quaint restaurants and shops. To Jacko, Terry and Ellie who had been waiting for days to get out of there, it was a bit of a dump.

We had thought the locals had been mad telling us it would take 10 hours to cover 600km. We estimated we could do it in 7 max. We were wrong, it took us all day to get to the guys, but it was universally agreed after picking up a stamp for the end of the world in the local tourist office we would head straight back the way we had just come.

It was a great feeling having us all together for the first time. A week into the trip and we could finally head in the correct direction - North. Spirits were high as we piled into the car. It became immediately apparent that it was going to be a squeeze. Jacko is a strapping 6'4 " and is often mistaken for a giant in a country of little people. Terry and Andy have broad shoulders due to the nature of being infantry captains (even a retired one maintains impressive width) so when a girl was in the front and two of the lads were in the back, it was to say the least uncomfortable. Oh well, only 9 long days and 5000km to go.

On the way back through Terra del Fuego we experienced a rumbling coming from the car. We pulled over and quickly exhausted all of our collective mechanical knowledge by kicking the tyres. The surprisingly did not point to the problem so with a heavy heart we headed back to Punta A to have it checked out. Its funny thing really, Terry was rather taken with Punta A, enjoying the colonial aspects, I suppose it is just being stuck in a place that makes you dislike it. Turns out the tough gravel is not the best for moving car bits but a quick pressure washers and a drag race through the town for Andy with the car rental man, (much scarier than even Terry's legendary driving, we were told) and we were back on our way.

Our destination was a damp town to the North called Puerto Natales. This town mainly exists to serve as a gateway to the magnificent Torres Del Paine. This is rumoured to be the best national park in the whole of the South America. Guide books wax lyrical of towering stacks next to azure blue lakes. We were all excited. Our plan was to spend the next morning exploring this walking Mecca, (from the comfort of our car I'm sad to report) then head to another Argentinean boarder.

Now with so much violent unrest in the world you can easily be forgiven for not knowing Argentina is facing another monetary crisis. A tale of defaulting on a countries debt is nothing compared to the true horror of the current unrest in the Iraq, Palestine, and Ukraine to name a few. However for this part of the world it is understandably big news and having an impact on even our little trip. This whole continent shows its discontent through strikes. Unfortunately for us a boarder strike was planned for the next day. With no roads headed north in Chile we were stuck for another night in Puerto Natales.

Luckily we had found a lovely and cute hostel. A resident dog named Mimie who matched the shag pile rug exactly, even made Ellie, who is very much a cat person with 3 waiting back home for her return, say she could imagine her and Terry having a pooch one day if it was like little Mimie.

After a lazy start, after all we were stuck there for another night, we head to Torres Del Paine which turned out to be truly beautiful. Even on a cold wet day and shrouded in shifting clouds it gave us tantalising glimpses of epic vistas. Conversation as to why the lakes were such a shocking blue revealed none of us had much knowledge about geography. Top of the list after discounting the depth, possible algae blooms and the blue stuff they put in swimming pools to expose the dreaded wee (ok I just made that one up) was the fact it was ice melt water. I fully expect our geography teacher friend Pippa to set me straight some time.
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We had however made a slight error on our way up to this remote national park. We had in our excitement we had forgotten to check the fuel levels. With an 8hour round trip it really is something we should have thought of and the indicator skimming the red line did not give us cheer. We discovered our error at the very beginning of the park but bravely, or stupidly, decided to push on. I took over driving and was instructed to keep in high gears, coast down hills and not use the brakes! Finding someone to help us in one of the few closed down (for the winter) hotels was our only glimmer of hope for some siphoned fuel. Our luck was finally in and after some expert sucking by a local we had enough fuel to start braking again.
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After all this excitement we were in much need of some refreshment. We unexpectedly came across the most beautiful hotel, which was open. Although a bit of an ugly ducking from the outside, inside the warm wood, huge sofas and cool interior design were an immersive pleasure. It had the feel of a Bond film set and we decided if we ever won the lottery we might buy it just to party in. At the very end of our day on the last section of the 90km round route through the national park we came across a road block. In true British fashion we completely ignored it, pulled it to one side and hoped for the best. Luckily the road was for the most part fine, the sways of dangerous subsiding roads I had imagined never appeared. We headed back for a home cooked dinner from Terry and an early night so we could be at the boarder when it reopened at 9am the next morning.

Posted by lskellis 09:07 Archived in Chile Comments (0)

Tap those Happy Feet.

Punta Arenas, puppies, penguins and a false start.

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Well there has been a woeful lack of any blog about our actual trip. So It is finally time to put fingers to keys and let you all know how we are getting on. It is hard to know where to begin, but is suppose the beginning is as good a place as any.

Week one:
Punta arenas
27/08/14 - 5/08/14
Km travelled: 300

Firstly we arrived after the dreaded 2 days flying. It turned out we took off and landed 6 times over three days. For those interested it was London to Dubai, (where Andy pulled out maximum husband points by getting me a facial in the spa and 2 hours swim, very nice indeed) Dubai to Rio, Rio to Buenos Aires. We had a good nights sleep there and then back on a plane to Santiago, then onto Puerto Montt and finally to Punta Arenas where our taxi would arrive.

We headed straight to our lovely hostel, to meet Jacko who had already arrived. We were met by the cutest puppy, which gave a little relief to the the Monty dog sized hole already in my heart.( I really need to get a grip. We're away for the next 3 months!)

Woke up feeling fresh and ready to get going on the trip. First order of the day was a meeting with Agunsa our container arrival agents. Once in the office we were ushered to the big conference room and met with Adolfo. Covering the walls of the offices were maps and pictures of Antarctica, how exciting to be working with a company who normally are more concerned getting vital supplies out to teams on the great ice shelf. Adolfo mentioned in passing a Korean team were now without fresh food for the next three months due to the bad weather. This brought into sharp contrast our own particular food woes.

Patagonian is an area of the world that specialises in slabs of meat and bread, and what could be wrong with that? Well cooking a baby does has a strange effect on your digestive system, a general go slow is the normal order of things. Overly friendly pregnancy sites, of which I am not a huge fan, advise lots of fruit and leafy vegetables, to keep things moving. It was clear from a couple of meals these things were in very short supply in Patagonia.

However back to the meeting with Adolfo. He informed us our container (already delayed in getting to Punta Arenas on the journey) was was waiting off shore but there would be problems unloading due to a ship breaking the loading dock during one of the famous storms they have down at the end of the world. Just our luck! However we weren't going to let it get us down. We would just be starting on the 5th rather than the 1st Aug. for Andy and I the time constraints are very different to Jako, terry and Ellie. With only having a month to play with a 5 day delay was a real blow to them. But what could we do?

With the delay we decided to explore our home for the next few days. Punta Arenas is a strange town. It is a busy place, with lots of people living their lives, but for an outsider it is a hard to imagine what they all do. It has a strange collection of architectural styles. You can tell it once a thriving busy port before the Panama Canal was built, however it well past it's heyday. Grand colonial edifices sit up next to what looks like shanty town shacks. Tin roofs on clapboard buildings reminded me of Reykjavik, but a rundown crappy version. It was bitterly cold, having left high summer in the UK, wrapping up in a down jacket, was always going to be a bit of a morale dasher. Well I suppose you should expect it to be a little nippy on the closest place to the Antarctic at the end of their winter.

One very important task was for me to find a camera charger. Some time ago after lengthy discussions as to our financial arrangements or lack there of, Andy and I decided we couldn't afford to buy some second hand camera equipment from a friend in Portugal. After this agreement over the phone I went ahead and brought the camera equipment. Luckily Andy is quite used to me being naughty and fully expected me to come home with the kit. It really is an expensive set up but completely useless without the all important charger, which I had inconveniently left at home. So after seeking local advice we were directed to a out of town shopping area. Although 5km away we decided to walk it. Now there is a funny thing in Chile, there are stray dogs everywhere. They are fed and looked after and cared for by the locals and they are incredibly friendly. We picked up a dog patrol, which grew as we walked. By the time we reached our shop we had 9 dogs following us! For us doggy mad types it was such a lovely surprise to have these furry friends with us.

Jacko decided he had seen all that Punta Arenas had to offer and went off to meet Terry and Ellie who had flown into Ushuaia. This town in Argentina is the furthest southern point you can reach by road on Terra del Fuego and would be our starting point once we got the taxi. Although only 600km away he was told it would take at a 12 hours bus ride to get there.

We stayed on to sort paperwork and organise the "un-stuffing" of our container. We fitted in a bit of the touristy stuff as well making an impressive 10hr round trip to see an amazing flock of King Penguins. Being big fans of the movie, Happy feet, this was a special moment. Although there was no discernible singing or choreographed moves, there was the icing on the penguin cake in the form of a fluffy fat junior in the middle, so cute!

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On this trip we met with a lovely Russian lady, Ana. Over a strange dinner of tinned meat and piles of chips, in the Shackleton bar, situated in a beautiful house where Shackleton sought help after his shipwreck, we had a very interesting discussion and heard a new perspective on the unrest caused by Russia at the moment. Suffice to say, many normal Russians are as perplexed by the current political manoeuvres as the West is.

On our return to our hostel we got some devastating news. In a cavalier fashion we were informed in an email from Adolfo ( who we had nicknamed "the legend " after our last meeting) our container was now due to arrive on the 18th August! We have all done it, missed a connection for a flight or train. We never expected it to happen to our little taxi. It turned out the port at San Antonio, just next to Santiago, had missed two feeder vessels heading south and the next one would arrive on the 18th.

A hastily arranged meeting with Adolfo lead us to conclusion nothing could be done except to leave the container in San Antonio and for us to make the journey North in a hire car to meet it there. Hiring a car for 10 days and leaving it in a another rental office, 5000km away, would cost us dear, but we couldn't afford the time to wait. Adolfo was upset for us and helped us organise the hire car. He also said we had to visit his parents and stay in his holiday home in the Chilean Lake District which was on route. Something at least to look forward to.

On the night of the 5th Aug we left Punta Arenas and heading South to pick up the rest if the gang. Although in a Nissan 4x4, not a London taxi, the journey had begun...

Posted by lskellis 18:26 Archived in Chile Comments (0)

The Bump

Our team of 5 becomes 6! Well 5 and a half.....

Everything was set for the big adventure. Car furred and shipped, eye-wateringly expensive tickets booked. On that note, in a desperate bid to save a few pennies it turns out the cheapest way to sly to South America is via Dubai. For those rusty on their GCSE geography what you are doing there is heading 7 hours in the wrong direction, a 6hr stopover followed before getting on a 19hr flight that finally heads West. But we are young and fit and would rather save the money and what's a couple of days flying around the world eh?

In the 3 months we had left before leaving, Andy and I had to pop out to Morocco a couple of times to do some work. It is tough but someone has to do it. We always have a good time there, we got engaged on our top terrace and it is an achingly romantic place to go. The thing was, due to some slightly dodgy time keeping and plenty of wine during the first trip we had to make one of the scariest purchases of our lives at Heathrow airport, on the way out to our second visit a couple of weeks later. A PREGNANCY test! We were fairly sure it was unnecessary but we still wanted to be sure. Babies had always been on the cards at some point but we were looking forward to a bit more travelling before we "settled down." In fact we had planned to start the rubbish time keeping towards the end of the trip not before we left.

After a couple of days of gathering our courage I finally did the whole peeing on the stick thing. In the exact same place we got engaged we waited for the seemingly innocuous plastic stick to tell us if our lives were about to change forever. Now this is a moment many of us have either gone through or imagined. Of all the scenarios, what I never expected was not agreeing on the result. A small piece of advice, don't check the test in blinding sun with sunglasses on. Those lines are hard to make out. However after a bit of "no we aren't that is clearly a line" (Andy) and "we bloody are, that is a cross" (Me) a quick look inside told us we were in fact going to be parents! EEEEEEAAAAAAKKKKKKKKKKK

The test!

The test!

We were shocked, excited, confused and all round emotional. After a few days of getting used to the idea we started to think about how this might effect our plans. We were about to embark on a huge trip we had already committed to, both financially and emotionally. We started much soul searching, and a crash course in what the actually happens to your body during this whole making another person thing, we really didn't know diddley-squat about any of that stuff.

Turns out our timing was brilliant. I would be over the nerve racking 3 month mark before we left. Lots can sadly go wrong during this time and I don't think we would have left until we were out of this period. Before we left I would have that exciting first scan to check that everything was going as planned. The first 3 months also turns out to be when all those horrible pregnancy symptoms hit. Sickness, bloating the most tender boobs in the world, all that and no one is even meant to know your pregnant. However I am one of the lucky ones and apart from some magnificent breast swelling I really didn't suffer. Going to bed everyday in the middle of the day didn't seem like much of a sacrifice! So I would be 3 months down by the time we left and then travelling in middle 3 months which is when people normally feel brilliant. I would be home for the last 3 months where they like to keep a close eye on you. Coupled with this I should be doing a good impression of a whale and I'm not sure spending hours in the car everyday during this time would be the best.

It was decided we were still going to go! For those interested here is our baby's first photo shoot taken just before we left. 90_photo.jpg

For those who aren't please don't worry as before seeing our own little wrigglier on the big screen I really couldn't see the appeal of a bleary black and white picture that I was reliably informed looked like a baby. To me these pictures are a little like those magic eye things, you either got them or you didn't.

Posted by lskellis 09:57 Archived in United Kingdom Comments (0)

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